Week 20: 8/14/05
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Week 20: 8/14/05
Ni Hao!
This week was amazing. We started it off with a one day tour into mainland China on Monday, and then spent the rest of the week trying to digest all we had seen and heard that day. It was also the sole day Michael got off for the entire four weeks that Josh was here with us, and what a way for Mike to spend his only day off this month!
I'm late! I'm late! For a very important date!
The morning started off like it typically does around our house with sleepy parents and wide awake children, full of energy. Only this morning started off much earlier than most, with us having to get to a hotel about 20 minutes from our home by 6:40 a.m. It was nuts, and we arrived late at about 6:45. It was a 13 hour tour, and I was anxious to make a good impression so that everyone would forgive us when our kids ultimately had their late in the afternoon breakdowns. The tour bus was already loaded and the tour guide saw our taxi and figured we were his late passengers so he waved us over. We made a few other stops to pick up our fellow tourists, and then we arrived at the China Ferry Terminal where we loaded onto a fast boat to China.
Down the Rabbit Hole
On the hour long boat ride, our tour guide, Derek, advised us of several things. He said we should never take a photo of a police officer without asking as they will harass you and toss you in jail if they are in a bad enough mood. He said that my kids would garner a lot of attention, as some of the people we'd be seeing have never seen blonde hair in person before. He gave us a quick rundown of the places we'd be visiting and what the itinerary would be for the day. Out the window I was amazed at the hundreds of giant cargo ships lined up at sea, waiting to come into port in either Hong Kong or China. It reminded me of the 405 freeway during rush hour! We arrived in Shenzhen and stepped off the boat to be faced by four police officers wearing facial expression like all their police brethren the world around. I felt strangely nervous, and even a little shaky as we lined up to go through the dark immigration hall. We were traveling on a group visa, so we had to stand in line in a specific order, which went Mike, me, Josh, Nathan, Benjamin. This was crazy, as the two smallest Chase's were already tired of staying still for the hour boat ride, and they were ready for some running, and we were supposed to let them go through the line last? We did make it through, and my nervousness went up another notch. We hear so much about China, our communist neighbors to the north, and not much of it is good. It was strange to finally be standing there in the place I've been longing to visit for nearly two years. Our number one choice was to go to Beijing and see the Great Wall, but with Mike only having ONE day off in an entire month, getting three days off to go that far seemed nothing more than an "if we win the lottery..." conversation - it's not going to happen. So this was our chance to visit a closer part of China.
A, E, I, O, Yooooou...
We boarded a bus and met our new tour guide, a government approved person to tell us what the State wanted us to hear about their country. Derek, our first tour guide from Hong Kong, came along for the ride, but was not really permitted to chime in with any of his own opinions or observations. No worries, we got the inside scoop though, since Derek fell in love with the boys and spent the entire day entertaining them, as well as pointing out little observations on the sly. Our first stop was to a giant white statue, depicting what is called the "goddess of creation", holding a ragged chunk of concrete high in the air above her head. She looked like she was half woman, half fish, with scales on the bottom of her body. Turns out she's a serpent, a snake, who sacrificed herself when the god of the sky and the god of the land were warring and the sky fell apart and she used her own body to patch up the last hole. We found this interesting since in the Biblical story of creation, it was a serpent who tempted Adam and Eve, vilified, not worshipped like this goddess who is also a snake! Derek took Nathan for a walk, saying he was going to take him to McDonalds. I wasn't at all worried about sending him off with a stranger until Josh said "hmmm, by now he's probably already sold Nathan...". But as the bus filled up, we saw Nathan and Derek coming back with a giant bag filled with pancakes, OJ, a strawberry sundae and a toy. We stopped worrying!
A Very Merry Un-Birthday
Our next stop was the "Mineral Museum of China", which held within it's doors the number one thing I wanted to see in China (besides the Great Wall), three of the terracotta warriors from Xian, where in 1974 some peasants uncovered the archeological find of the century - the mausoleum of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of all China in 211 --206 BC. He was buried with over 7000 life-sized terracotta warriors, each one of them unique with different facial expressions or hairstyles. A museum was built around the excavation site, where today work continues on unearthing these amazing artifacts. Knowing there is no way we'll be able to make the trip to Xian to see these, I booked this tour with the knowledge that we would at least get to see three of them in person at this museum. Upon entering the museum, we were told we could not bring in our cameras, and that we had to stay together. The tour guide at the museum took us into the first room which had walls filled with exquisite screens with scenes of flowers and ladies made of jade in every shade imaginable. It was indeed impressive. Then the tour guide told us that everything in the room was for sale, you could buy it for a donation to the state-run museum. Uh, what? Her sales pitch got elevated when she said that for the remarkable price of only $4000 US, you could get the screen sent to the U.S. insured and then you'd get your name in their "VIP" book for all time! And wouldn't it make a lovely birthday present? Okaaay. Mike and Josh and I shot each other looks... was this a "museum" or a store? The tour guide wouldn't let us leave the room, and it didn't help that the other members in our group were there to buy, so they kept asking questions. Yes, the jade was interesting, and I was amazed to learn that like many crafts world-wide, less and less people are learning jade cutting, since to master a single flower takes two years. But what I really wanted to see wasn't jade... it was made of terracotta... After my kids were on the verge of total breakdowns, the tour guide finally took us to the next room, and there they were! And she pointed them out "oh, here are the terracotta warriors. Now everyone to the next room where we have fine examples of small jade sculptures at good prices!". My heart sank. The warriors were not for sale, and therefore uninteresting to the tour guide (or should I say "saleslady"). Michael and I pulled back, taking a minute to look at these four pieces created by human hands over two thousand years ago. There was a general standing tall and proud, a horse as big as the Budweiser Clydesdales, a soldier crouching down, his hands in position to hold a long staff that has long since disintegrated, and a small child, crouching down with a playful expression on his face, banging a drum. I was disappointed that they weren't a bigger part of the tour (since the tour description highlighted them!) but still felt satisfied that I saw them.
This Way!
After our tour-mates spent every last cent they had on jade while the five of us sipped lychee tea (YUM, wish I had purchased some!), we got back on the bus for a two hour drive from Shenzhen to Guangzhou, the first real city across the border in China. Shenzhen is a "special economic zone" created only 25 years ago where factory upon factory employs young people up to age 30 for the best money you can make in China, which is sadly a depressingly small amount by U.S. standards. On the bus ride we saw so many other things that depressed me further which would require one hundred pages to write about. It's just so shocking to come from the U.S. with all our toys that we feel we can't live without (like televisions, cars, computers, air conditioning, and giant supermarkets) to go to a place where construction workers are paid $3 US a day for back breaking labor, and aren't even provided with their own hard hats. It's hard to reconcile that with feeling like we have "so little" since we personally don't own a house of our own, when we saw the stifling hot dormitories, the size of our Parkview walk in closet, which are shared by ten men who sleep in shifts doing round the clock work at the factories and are fined if they turn on a light during the day. When we finally got to Guangzhou, we dined at a five star hotel, eating the best Chinese food we've ever had. Josh kept saying "the lemon chicken actually tasted like lemon!" and "now I know why they call it sweet and sour pork!".
Painting the Roses Red
One of the more interesting things we saw were the government buildings which were surrounded by high fences. At the gate, we saw dozens of men, sitting on the ground, holding banners in the hot, humid sun. Armed police stood by, warily watching them. Our official tour guide said they were farmers who were just on their lunch break, upset that they hadn't been paid for last weeks' work. Our Hong Kong tour guide said he read the banners, and they are actually people who invested the life savings of their entire family in buying an apartment before the apartment building was complete, only to see the project go bankrupt and loose all their money. They are not allowed to protest, they are allowed to hold a banner in silence sitting on the ground. If they talk to any of the passersby, the armed police take them to jail. That was certainly thought provoking to hear two very different stories about what we saw! We visited the Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, a giant theater where we watched a rehearsal for a live television broadcast charity event. On stage a group of apathetic young people went through the motions of a dance routine while the emcee practiced his speech over the microphone as tour groups wandered around taking photos. Our scariest stop was at a Buddhist temple which featured a statue of a female Buddha. Married couples come there right after their wedding to pray for a baby boy. As we got off the tour bus, we were surrounded by beggars. Actually, surrounded is a little tame. We were mobbed. As a group, we hobbled across the street, protecting our bags from the reaching hands of people with obvious physical disabilities and some that just wore torn and dirty clothing. When we crossed the barrier to the temple, the beggars backed off, and suddenly the Chase Family became a tourist attraction as worshippers and locals looked at Michael and I with Nathan, Benjamin, and Joshua (who they assumed was also our son) and started calling out "lucky lady!", and touching me and the boys. It was slightly awkward and very strange. I declined to go into the temple, and instead watched the boys play with a monk who gave them a fruit called a "dragon's eye" that had been picked from the tree we were sitting under. Nathan liked it, Benjamin spit it out immediately, causing much laughter. We made our way to the KCR railway and boarded a train to take us back to Hong Kong. Both boys had done exceedingly well all day. Until we got on the train. It was then that Benjamin let out all the bad feelings that he's surely been harboring for quite some time, wailing and screaming and crying for the better part of the two hour train ride. I was nearly limp from exhaustion after trying everything I could think of to get him to stop crying. Mike had no better luck. As soon as we got off the train and onto the bus that would take us back to Hong Kong Island, Benjamin fell straight asleep. Then Nathan dropped off, followed quickly by Mike. Josh and I stayed up and watched the Kowloon city lights and all the people out for a walk at night in their fancy clothes.
Wake up Alice! Wake up!
Hope you enjoyed our little trip through the looking glass! Next week we get another punch in our "frequent visitor card" for Adventist Hospital when a typhoon hits and Nathan gets injured trying to get out the heebie-jeebies in the indoor playground after a week of being cooped up. And we are among the very first people in the world to experience Hong Kong Disneyland's first rehearsal day! The end of our time in Hong Kong is drawing near, but that doesn't mean the adventures are slowing down! So come check out our photos from this week in China!
Happy traveling!
Heather, Michael, Nathan, and Benjamin Chase
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And were off!
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Our day in China began with a quick bus ride to the China Ferry Terminal at 6:45 a.m.
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Leaving Hong Kong by boat, on our way to China.
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The "goddess of creation", half woman, half snake.
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The Museum of the Western Han Tomb of the Nanyue King (206 B.C.-24 A.D.). He was found wrapped in a shroud made of small pieces of jade completely covering his body, tied together with silk ribbon.
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We stopped at a Free Market where you could buy live chickens to take home and butcher or stand there and watch while they did it for you.
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We watched this artist create a beautiful landscape using only his hands and fingers, no paintbrush.
Very different from my version of "finger painting"!
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If there is a cannon within 40 feet of my boys, they will find it! This one was hidden at the top of some stone stairs which had overgrown with vines.
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A worker at the Temple of the Six Banyan Trees
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This monk gives the boys some "dragon's eye" fruit.
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Benjamin spits it out immediately, but Nathan liked it!
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Nathan and a stone lion
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A roofline with mythic animals guarding it
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The Chen Clan Academy
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Beautiful marble work
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I pity the poor boy who has to mow his roof...
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Our tour guide Derek bought the boys bubble machines to keep them occupied at some of the less exciting for children stops on our tour.
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Public toilets in China. You pay for fifteen minutes of time in an air conditioned cubicle with classical music playing. When the fifteen minutes of time are up, the door automatically opens! Surprise!
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Hanging out the laundry
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If you are too poor to buy a newspaper, you can read it off the wall where it is posted each day.
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Nathan and Benjamin at the Chen Clan Academy.
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Cool gate!
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Protesters outside the government buildings.
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More protesters.
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Dr. Sun Yat-Sen's Memorial Hall
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The Chase Family with Josh
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